BMW E60 520i M54 MY2004 Euro I have fault with K-CAN line in many modules. What can it be? I see in kombi it not read out mileage, can it be kombi instrument? CAN fault is difficult to find so if anyone can point me in right direction I had been very happy for it. Jan 24, 2017 BMW E60 Optic Fibre network problem. Fault finding and repair. LM Auto Repairs. Fault finding and root cause. Duration: 31:25. BMW E60 CCC computer coding/programming.
After spending the best part of this year and many hundreds of pounds trying to fix my parking sensors I finally got them back on line a couple of weekends ago. I thought I'd share this experience in case anyone is going through the same.I have replaced:.PDC Control Module.PDC Front wiring loom.PDF Rear wiring loom.4 rear sensors.4 front sensors (twice)I used Carly to read the fault codes. When understanding the codes it's important to know that the 8 parking sensors form a continuous circuit, a short circuit in 1 sensor will knock any sensors downstream of it offline.None of my sensors were making a clicking noise. Originally the error code I received was 009E3B - Converter supply. This can mean there's a short circuit due to a faulty loom or sensor or the module might just be fried. If you look at the PDC Module under the spare wheel well you'll see 3 connectors plugged into it:.Top - Supply to Front Loom.Middle - Power from battery to Module.Bottom - Supply to Rear LoomTo understand the root of 009E3B remove the top connector, re-read the codes, if you now get additional error codes with the fault text containing 'Inverter' you're issue is at the front of the car and your module is fine.
Repeat for the rear, if you get fault codes containing the fault text 'Inverter' your issue is at the rear. If you don't get any codes with the fault text 'Inverter' then your module is either screwed or the sensor in position 1 of the circuit is.
I'm not sure how to determine this, at least not with Carly.Turned out my module was fried. Nice one.How did you find out the details of the codes etc and to know that the code means it's the next one that is faulty and not the one that the code relates to? Google?Any clues as to what caused the module to fail?
Water ingress?Couldn't find anything useful on google. Just thought that if the sensor is broken it's not going to communicate so it makes sense that the only sensor picked up by the diagnostics is the one preceding the broken one on the circuit.Not sure what caused the module to fail, definitely no signs of water there.Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk. Many thanks for a very good explanation!Carly shows mine E60 (2004) the following PDC fault code:Inverter HR009E34I have two questions to you and would appreciate your reply:(1) which type of E60 sensor should I buy? I checked some videos about how to replace the PDC sensor and it appears the older E60 had a different form factor than you showed in the links. Does it matter which kind to use as long as it is for E60?(2) You mention the front PDC sensors could be assessed by removing the front headlight. Have not done it before.
Which way is easier, in your opinion, by removing front bumper or headlight?Cheers,Jiaxin. Many thanks for a very good explanation!Carly shows mine E60 (2004) the following PDC fault code:Inverter HR009E34I have two questions to you and would appreciate your reply:(1) which type of E60 sensor should I buy? I checked some videos about how to replace the PDC sensor and it appears the older E60 had a different form factor than you showed in the links. Does it matter which kind to use as long as it is for E60?(2) You mention the front PDC sensors could be assessed by removing the front headlight. Have not done it before. Which way is easier, in your opinion, by removing front bumper or headlight?Cheers,JiaxinI wasn't aware that there were different versions of sensor for the E60.I know the E60 sensors are backwards compatible with the E39 so doubt it matters. The same sensors are also used on Land Rovers and I believe some Citroens too.
SWF is the oem make.To remove the front bumper you need to remove the headlights anyway, so if you're just attempting to repair the parking sensors and aren't planning to replace the loom there's no need to remove the bumper.Your code suggests an error at the rear though so not sure why you're looking at the front?Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk. I wasn't aware that there were different versions of sensor for the E60.I know the E60 sensors are backwards compatible with the E39 so doubt it matters.
The same sensors are also used on Land Rovers and I believe some Citroens too. SWF is the oem make.To remove the front bumper you need to remove the headlights anyway, so if you're just attempting to repair the parking sensors and aren't planning to replace the loom there's no need to remove the bumper.Your code suggests an error at the rear though so not sure why you're looking at the front?Sent from my SM-N910F using TapatalkMany thanks for your prompt reply.I used Carly OBD II which detects only HR defective PDC sensor. I used also Bavarian Tecknic OBD and detected even the front left corner PDC sensor is defective. So your advice for removing only headlight may be much easier.I have looked different 'PDC sensors for BMW E60' and found at least more than three different forms. In the old type sensor, the three poles for electric contact are in a straight line but in the newer type the three contact poles are arranged in triangle position.
So I guess my car contact could only fit one of them.Regards,Jiaxin. Many thanks for your prompt reply.I used Carly OBD II which detects only HR defective PDC sensor.
I used also Bavarian Tecknic OBD and detected even the front left corner PDC sensor is defective. So your advice for removing only headlight may be much easier.I have looked different 'PDC sensors for BMW E60' and found at least more than three different forms. In the old type sensor, the three poles for electric contact are in a straight line but in the newer type the three contact poles are arranged in triangle position.
So I guess my car contact could only fit one of them.Regards,JiaxinOK, my car is 2005 and has the pins in a triangular formation if that helps.Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk. For months now i've been surfing the net trying to fix my e60 PDC.My friend diagnosed me that the front passenger pdc is faulty, so i ordered a new one.
Turns out the sensor is not faulty, rather any sensor i put in that spot is not working (it doeant click, while all other sensors do).Is it possible that the passanger middle sensor is faulty even if it is clicking?So ive eliminated the sensor faultyines. Also the wires are in good shape and its unlikley a wire broke somwhere in the car. I've dismantled my headlight 3 times now.Im do not own a diagnostic. How can i check is my module faulty before i buy a new one? Caladan, that is really useful informationThe fault code I have is 009E37.
I have tracked it down to the front left sensor which does not pulse (all others do - remaining 3 at front and all rear 4). I have changed the sensor and the controller in the boot floor, but the fault comes straight back when reset with Carly Pro. I found the junction of the front wiring loom and buzzed the cable to the sensor and all is good.My question is, do you have any information about where the wiring loom goes to from the front bumper on its route to the boot floor well?
I just wondered whether there could be another joint somewhere?Or could this be something else as I noticed an earlier post with the same symptoms. What do you mean by 'buzzed the cable' I've had no pdc for 3 years and now I'm determined to get it working I get no clicking from all sensors I did try my bro in laws module from 6 series which worked for about 5 sec and then went back to pdc failure. Worse bit is when I put it back in his car it no longer worked in that, so had to buy him a new module. What I'm wondering if you unplugged front and rear connectors from boot would it still throw a fault if module was good ie would the green light in dash still blink or be static. I don't want to keep buying modules if the car is going to keep blowing them. Car is 2004 e60 530d. I have a multimeter, don't know how to use it really if any ones got any ideas.
Indeed I've had intermittent PDC for about 3 years as well. In very dry hot weather they tend to work some of the time, and very rarely in cold damp weather. And yes it is bone dry in the boot.They were perfect for a while, and then what I would get when driving along the motorway in the rain sometimes was a bong to say PCD error, which would then re-set itself. Eventually a permanent PDC error except for above in summerAt the very least I should look at the module in the first pic in the post and make sure the connectors are tight and secure. A nuisance being without them, especially the rear, but I never had them before this car so can do without.Edited August 4, 2018 by Tuvoc. OK, so I finally got to the bottom of my issue.
Mine was a wiring issue which came about over the 11 years and 160,000 miles the car has done.All 4 front sensors are in a single wiring loom which runs from the front right to the front left dropping each sensor off as it goes. The front right headlight cluster was removed (this is a UK car so its the driver side - I presume they are all the same though).
The PDC wiring loom runs down the wing to the front bumper to a point behind the fog light, where there is a connection joint. I pulled out the wiring loom to inspect it and there the problem was, the wiring loom had been rubbing against the bumper or the fog light and had rubbed through to expose some contacts.The repair was a fairly simple cutback and piece out of the broken wires and then a good wrap in self-amalgamating tape. Job done, a well deserved pot of tea earned.It is worth noting that my car is a 520D touring LCI 2007. I have also had to do the tailgate wiring, which was down to a similar issue of wires rubbing and wearing out. D4EWW -I had the module disconnected altogether whilst I was faulting the wiring. I was using a multimeter with a long flying lead, testing continuity of each wire from the front of the car back to the PDC controller in the boot (I used the term 'buzzing out' before, to answer your earlier question).The flashing green light seems to be a general fault indication which is given when it sees any issue.
From what I remember, if you disconnect the module the car thinks it doesn't have the system and just stops reporting PDC issues.In my case I only had one faulty sensor (which turned out to be the wire not the sensor). In this case the system didn't carry on using the rear sensors (which were never at fault) as it could have done, it just shut down the whole system front and rear.
So I would think that your system will shut down and flash green wherever the fault is. I could try to replicate pulling the front and rear sensors to see what happens if you need me to.Reading your earlier post, it appears you blew a module whilst localising the fault. My guess would be that you have a short circuit in the wiring, not a disconnect, this is only a guess though.Also, I have a Carly tool, which I used to reset the computer. I can't remember whether I needed to, I think the system just started working again once I had cleared the fault, which would explain intermittent faultsStuart. Hi all,Just went through a days work of fault finding a non working PDC system using the excellent information provided by Medved77 and Caladan and thought to give some additional feedback.In the beginning i had the intermittent PDC failure that eventually got permanent.
The first thing I did was to scan the car with INPA and got the 9E3B error mentioned above. Thinking it was a PDC module issue I replaced the module only to find the same error appearing again :(.With both the front and the back sensors plugged in, I only got one error (the 9E3B error).If I unplugged either the front or the back sensors I would still only get the 9E3B error.With all sensors disconnected, and only the power plug conected, I would get 9 errors, one for each of the sensors and the 9E3B error.At this stage I didn't want to spend more time on it and let it be for some months.Not wanting to buy a new module I ripped it out of the boot today and opened it up. At first glance everying seemed fine, no water damage or corrosion on either the new nor the old module, but after taking a closer look I discovered that one of the ICs had a small mark on the top. I borrowed a microscope and immediately saw that the mark was actually a deep crater that you will find on ICs that most likely experienced a short circuit right before evaporating.Searching google I found other threads (in German, Polish and Czech) listing the proper part numbers. The part is a transistor most likely used to switch on/off the sensors or some other IC. The transistor is positioned in the top left corner (away from the connectors).I scavenged a similar part from some electronics and did my best to fix the PDC module.These parts can be used as replacements for the fried transistor: BC807-25 / BC807-40 / BC327-25 / 2N5817 / 2SA698 / BCW68 / BSR16 (the one I used)Now, before connecting the module I didn't want to blow it once again so I only plugged in the power plug (no sensors).This time INPA only gave me 8 errors, one for each sensor.
Since the 9E3B error disappeared I thoughtI actually managed to fix the PDC module.Before plugging in the sensors I checked each sensor channel for continuity just to ensure that no direct connections where present from sensor supply to sensor ground and from sensor supply to chassis ground.I didn't find anything this time so I assume whatever caused the parts to fail was related to humidity somewhere in the harness or in one of the sensors.Now, with all the sensors connected again INPA only returned one error pointing at the last working sensor in the chain as described by Medved77. I have yet to change the sensor but at this point I am quite confident that this will bring the system back to life.So. The morale of the story:1) Don't just plug in new devices without checking for short circuits. Assume that whatever killed your sensor or PDC module will do it again if you just replace it. My bet is on water but it may just as well be a short in the PDC sensor itself.2) Don't assume that only one part is faulty, a failing PDC sensor is likely bring more components down with it. Start by making sure that the PDC module work (no 9E3B error should be present!)3) If your PDC module doesn't work.
Open the casing and have a look at it, there will probably be some clues as to why it doesn't work. If you can find the hopefully visible error and know a bit of soldering (or know someone who knows) you might be able to salvage the module without too much effort and basically no cost at all)Edited July 24 by Winther. Hi, many thanks for all helpful informations. E60LCI: full PDC Retrofit with used PDC, front/rear wiring looms and 8 new sensors.I have two errors: 9E29 (Display error) and the famous 9E3B error. I've opened the PDC module to look for some water damage, I've checked each transistor and everything looks fine inside. When I unplug the front wiring from PDC, the rear sensors works fine and I have only 9E29 error.
When everything is plugged, nothing works and I have both errors. Thanks for any advise. Hi, I have a provisional solution for faulty front sensors/wiring. If you have a working PDC ecu (you can test it with NCS, ISTA) but one of these errors: 9E37, 9E38, 9E39, 9E3A and 9E3B in my case, you have to disconnect front wiring from PDC, then read ecu with ncs. You'll find a line: ANZAHLWANDLER.
8wandler, you have to change it to 4wandler, code it, then the PDC will work again, but only rear sensors. In some cases you have to activate it with ISTA-D.There is also a parameter for this in CCCAPP so you can choose if the display is showing all sensors or just the rear.PDCTYPEfull / rear.